Dogs In The 'Hood - Yo! What It Is, What It Was and What It Should Be

by
Jack Wilson

When I was a kid, lo these many years ago, there were no leash laws. Dogs roamed freely and frequently got hit by cars, got into fights, created, through some mysterious process, new dogs to enhance, scare and delight the world.

We had a dog in our household. We didn’t own a leash; never even considered it. My uncle who lived with us claimed that he owned the dog. Maybe legally, but he worked nights and slept all day, so we took care of the dog. Dash was its name. My uncle had brought home two dogs, male and female; named them dot and dash after his interest in ham radio and Morse Code. Dot was not kept. My younger sister claimed that Dash belonged to her because he was a boy dog and Dot would have been mine because she was a girl dog. My sister, younger and smarter than me, applied some rare sort of logic with such biblical authority that I reckoned she must be right.

Dash was free to roam the neighborhood, but didn’t stray very far from the source of his livelihood which he perceived not as people but a dish which somehow magically kept being re-filled.

Neighbor dogs, on the other hand, intruded dangerously into other people’s business, especially if those people had dogs. One such pet was more interested in the amorous sensuality produced by the availability of human legs. This was distressing to all the neighbors. We never knew who owned that Don Juan Perro.

We had to keep water hoses and sticks ready to break up fights between a German Shepherd and his nemesis; a mongrel misnamed Duke. This was such a regular occurrence that it became something like tuning in The Lone Ranger on the radio at the designated time each day. (Are you beginning to see how old I am?)

Things are different today, what with Dobermans, Rotweilers and Pit Bulls creating havoc. (letters of protest from dog lovers welcome)

Most states or counties or cities have strict laws about dog freedom now. Here is a sample: "Any person owning, harboring, or controlling a male or female dog whether vaccinated or unvaccinated, licensed or unlicensed, sterilized or unsterilized, shall always keep such animal from running at large by either: (A) Securely confining such animal within an adequate fence or enclosure, or within a house, garage, or other building or (B) Accompanying the animal on a leash."

This is serious business. Stray dogs are picked up by animal control centers and put in cages for awhile. Either they are adopted or destroyed. Destroyed means killed. The typical method for this is a chamber in which the dogs are shoved and the door is sealed and the air sucked out. This is more humane than it sounds since the dogs quickly go to sleep and don’t know what hit them.

Even so, not a pretty picture.

Dog owners who do not obey the law can be severely fined. If their dog kills a baby, the consequences are devastating to all concerned. The dog is usually killed, the owners may be jailed and fined and most certainly are ostracized by the neighborhood.

Bleak!

It is easy to find dog training schools. It is easy to secure your dog. It is easy to have your life ruined by being careless about your dog.

I wish you a merry neighborhood free of dog trouble.

Love thy neighbor as thy dog.

Jack Wilson is a writer and artist from Los Angeles and Phoenix.

http://www.geocities.com/galimatio/jackwilson.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jack_Wilson



Article Source: http://www.articleonlinedirectory.com/280236/dogs-in-the-hood--yo-what-it-is-what-it-was-and-what-it-should-be.html

Which is the Right Leash for Your Puppy or Dog?

by
Aidan Bindoff

Which is the right leash for your puppy or dog? With so many to choose from, picking a leash for your new puppy or dog can be confusing. There are really only a few things you need to know, and when you know them, selecting a leash for your puppy or dog is really quite simple!

The best general purpose leash is about 4' (120cm) long, and well made. Look for quality stitching, and a material that will not burn or chafe your hands. Leather is excellent quality and very long lasting if cared for properly. I prefer a cotton/synthetic webbing, the softer the better.

A 4' leash will not encourage bad habits. If you follow a pulling dog, that dog will learn to pull. There is no need for a 'training' collar or reprimands. Any flat collar or harness is fine so long as you are consistent and do not follow a pulling dog. Your dog should ideally walk by your side and not stray too far from that position, a longer leash allows your dog too much freedom.

That is not to say that we cannot give our dogs free time to explore on leash, and when we do give the signal, a longer leash is appropriate. A 'flexi' style retractable leash is great in this situation, although a very strong dog may damage a retractable leash. An aggressive dog is probably not safe on a retractable leash unless the leash is very good quality.

If you plan to do any tracking with your dog, then a good quality 30' (10m) leash is a good investment. Again, I prefer a soft cotton webbing although there are lightweight climbing ropes which do not get heavy when wet and will not chafe or burn. Two knots should be tied, one at the end to stop the line from running out and one about 6' from the end let you know when you are about to run out of line.

I also use my 30' tracking line when I am just ambling through the forest and have signalled to my dog that it is ok to explore within that length of line. Just putting that leash on is signal enough.

A 30' tracking line is also excellent for teaching recalls and stays when you are not in a safe off-leash training area.

The fittings on the end of the leash need to be very good quality. A strong snap-style fitting is best, as it is easy to use and generally trouble free. If you and your dog spend a lot of time at the beach, they will rust out and get jammed with sand unfortunately. I had a leash made with a brass diver's snap. Sand does not get caught in the spring and it does not rust, however it does not have a very strong spring and has come undone by accident. I think it's probably better to just wash out a good quality snap with fresh water and apply a little water dispersant (CRC or WD40) after a visit to the beach.

Cotton or synthetic leashes will need to be washed occassionally, which will greatly enhance their life. By the same token, don't store them in direct sunlight. The same is true of leather leashes. An occassional rub down with leather preservative is all that a leather leash requires.

If you have a dog who enjoys biting at the leash then training can be employed to bring this behavior under control. I favour deliberately teaching a dog to play tug with the leash and putting the behavior on cue, that way I develop control over the behavior and can use it as a reward for other behavior.

A quicker solution to biting the leash is to get a 4' metal chain leash, which is not nearly so enjoyable to bite on. Get one with a snap which attaches to a normal flat collar, some come as choker chains. If you are competent with a choker chain (check chain), then go right ahead and use it as such, but most people are not nearly so competent as they might imagine and would be better served learning positive reinforcement training methods. Positive reinforcement traning methods are far less likely to damage your relationship with your dog, your dog's spine and trachea, and your dog's enjoyment of working and walking.

Aidan Bindoff is Editor of Positive Petzine, a free resource for people training their own dogs.

Join now, and for a limited time you can download all available back issues for free!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aidan_Bindoff



Article Source: http://www.articleonlinedirectory.com/282457/which-is-the-right-leash-for-your-puppy-or-dog.html

Your Dogs Medicine Chest - Things Every Dog Owner Should Have on Hand

by
Randy Jones

It is always wise to be prepared for an emergency, so when you acquire a dog, you should also prepare a special medicine kit for him. You can make one up yourself or buy one already put together. The following list of items is usually good enough for most minor injuries, at least until you can get to the vet.

-absorbent cotton
-cotton swabs
-adhesive tape
-gauze bandage (2 or 3 inches wide)
-elastic self-adhesive bandage
-disposable gloves
-Vaseline
-alcohol
-antiseptic cream
-hydrogen peroxide
-flea powder
-rectal thermometer
-blunt – nosed scissors
-tweezers
-small flashlight
-foil blanket (bubble wrap can be used)
-spare collar and lead
-name, address, and phone number for your veterinarian

When dealing with an injured pet, they are usually scared, disoriented and untrusting of anyone, even their owners. Never chase or corner a scared animal. Talk to him in a calm gentle voice; call him by name, and get down to his level, only moving closer to him as he calms down. After you are close to him, you should attach a leash to prevent him from running and possibly making his injury worse.

Carry out any essential first-aid procedures needed to save your dogs life or reduce his pain and stress. Keep him warm by wrapping him in a foil blanket or bubble wrap. Contact your veterinarian for advice, or to arrange for his assistance. Move the animal carefully and slowly and always remember to remain calm.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest dog clothes, dog collars, dog carriers and more for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at http://www.joncopets.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randy_Jones



Article Source: http://www.articleonlinedirectory.com/282606/your-dogs-medicine-chest---things-every-dog-owner-should-have-on-hand.html