Halter Training Your Dog

By : John Neyman Jr.
One of the easiest training lessons you will ever encounter is halter training. Why is this? It is because your dog already knows the basics of how to function on a collar and leash system and walking is within their natural range of movement. Thus, you are not asking the dog to do anything outside of its normal field of activity. All you are doing is putting an extension on the collar and leash, which allows for more control of the animal.

So to begin the discussion, what is a halter? A halter in its simplest of forms is no more than an extended collar which has a secondary collar that encircles the animal’s upper torso just behind the front legs. There is a D-loop on the back for the attachment of a leash and the whole attachment usually buckles in the front. The halter is useful in stopping disagreeable behaviors and provides more control for the handler without wrenching the animal’s neck to achieve this goal.

To halter train your dog, you must first get your dog used to the apparatus. Let them explore it, sniff it and generally just look it over and become comfortable with it. This will put the dog at ease that this is not some new form of torture that you have devised and the dog will be more willing not to resist in the next step of training, which is placing the halter on the dog.

Most often halters are placed on the dog by slipping the collar portion over the head and then wrapping the torso section around the dog just behind the front legs. Many systems use a metal buckle or even a plastic snap connector of the type common amongst backpackers which joins the pieces together thus forming two loops, one around the neck and the other around the torso, with a connecting piece in between. The D-loop would then be positioned on the dogs back so affixing a leash is no major task. There are variations on this system however so read the manufacturers instructions on your particular model so as to avoid injury to yourself or your pet.

Now that we have the halter on your pet, the hard part is over. Now you get to have some fun praising your pet for cooperating so well and rewarding them. Also give them a few minutes to explore the new sensation of the halter without the leash while rewarding them for not trying to remove it. The rewards will help with the next part of the training as well, which is getting them to walk while on a halter and leash system. My favorite method for this is to find an assistant who can walk a few feet in front of the animal and myself and offer some kind of treat to the dog, be it food or a favorite toy. The dog quickly learns that the harness is not restrictive and will follow the treats. Walk with your pet and allow them to sense that this device is not an encroachment on their freedom. If the dog begins to pull you along, say no and stand in one place just as in leash training. This will teach the dog that, while the halter does not impede their normal movements, there are limits to what they are allowed. In no time at all, you should have a pet that will happily be haltered and be ready to walk at your side rather than pulling you along over hill and vale.

The halter also has the added advantage of being a good handle should you need more control of a situation such as when aggressive behaviors are displayed. There is a simple technique to deal with this and avoid injuries to your pet or yourself. If you encounter a situation where you think aggression may be an issue quickly take in all slack on the leash and grab the harness between the collar and the torso loop. By pulling back on this section, you will raise your dog’s front legs off the ground and distract them from their aggressive behavior. In smaller dogs, it is possible to lift the dog completely free of danger in this manner.



Author's Resource:

John E. Neyman, Jr. is a Pastor, an internet marketer, a counselor, life coach. www.dogsareforever.com/

Visit Animal Pets & Friends for more pet and animal articles.

TEACHING OLD DOGS NEW TRICKS

By: John Neyman Jr.
Common knowledge and witticism tells a person that old dogs are incapable of learning new behaviors as is often bespoken in the adage, “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks”. Despite the numbers of people who would proclaim this decree to be solid truth, we are here to tell you that it nowhere near the being an accurate description of the truth. While it is a little more difficult for an older dog to be trained, it is entirely within the realm of possibility if one uses patience and remains consistent in the dog’s lessons throughout the process.

The first step in training an older dog is remembering that this dog has, most likely, already been trained once, be it properly or improperly. The older dog already has preconceived notions as to what acceptable behaviors are and what behaviors are not welcome. If you wish to change one of these behaviors you have to reprogram the dogs thinking process. For instance, a farm dog may have been trained to protect the barnyard and chase stray animals and predators away from the barn. Unfortunately, the dog now lives in your townhouse and thinks your cat is its mortal enemy. We have to reprogram the dogs thinking to make it understand that chasing the cat is not acceptable. So how would we handle this situation?

To start, make certain that the cat will be safe by placing the cat in a pet carrier or some other sturdy structure that prohibits the dog from actually physically contacting the animal but still allows for both animals to see, smell and hear each other. This provides a way for both animals to acclimate to each other in a safe, though possibly a bit stressful, situation. This small step teaches the dog and cat that both are going to have a presence in the home.

After the animals have both calmed a bit give them each a small reward, such as a piece of kibble. Be sure to give the dog lots of verbal praise and affection when it is not barking or trying to get to the cat as this reinforces his good behavior. These rewards are quite important in teaching older dogs as they help to retrain their minds that this behavior is good and is rewarded, thus making them want to repeat the behavior. This will also show the dog that you are accepting of the cat’s presence and you expect him to be accepting of the animal also. Repeat this process several times over the course of a week or so, until both animals seem fairly accustomed to the presence of the other and their aggressions seem to have subsided. At this point, you are ready to move on to the next step.

This step will require an assistant to help with one of the animals. Have the assistant leash the dog and hold him firmly on a very short leash. After instructing the assistant to maintain control of the dog, open the pet carrier and bring the cat out carefully. Your dog will likely move towards the cat so be sure the assistant has him held tightly and be careful not to let the cat panic and escape your grasp. Gradually bring them closer together and let them calmly adapt to each others presence. Repeat this step several times over the next few days and by the end of the week, these two animals should be like old chums.

Through this exercise, we see the basics of teaching an old dog something new. It involves first recognizing the dog’s previous training and then deciding what is applicable and what needs changed. Then reinforcing the good parts of the dog’s behavior with plenty of positive rewards and verbal praise while restricting or redirecting the parts of the behavior you want to stop. We also see that it is necessary to change the behavior in small steps rather than a complete change all at one time. This serves to help the older dog by not confusing him totally. With small steps the animal feels that it is learning new tricks rather than a complete behavior modification. This also allows you to spot trouble before it grows to large to handle. It also is essential to exercise patience and be consistent so that you may indeed teach your old dog some brand new tricks.




Author's Resource:

John E. Neyman, Jr. is a Pastor, an internet marketer, a counselor, life coach. www.dogsareforever.com/

Visit Animal Pets & Friends for more pet and animal articles.

California Dog Bite Laws

By: Arnold Hernandez


In California all dog owners are liable for their dogs actions that cause injury. The owner of any dog is liable for the damages suffered by any person who is bitten by the dog while in a public place, or in a private place. The victim has to have a right to be in the private place. It could be by implied invitation or expressed invitation. The owner of the dog is liable even if the dog bites on the owner's property. It does not matter if the owner new or should have known the dog was vicious or not. A person is considered to be lawfully upon the private property when he is on the property in the performance of any duty imposed upon him by the laws of the State of California or by the laws or postal regulations of the United States, and also when the person on the private property on invitation from the property owner, the invitation could be expressed or implied.



Someone breaking into a private home and bitten by a dog would not have a cause of action under strict liability. If your dog rushes out and bites someone knocking on your door or if your dog bites someone that is there for the purpose of converting you to their religion or perhaps someone that is trying to sell you a subscription to a nonexistent magazine, then they would have a cause of action, because of implied invitation. If you happen to have a fence that is locked or just closed and with a sign advising that no one is invited implied or expressly then you are unlikely to be liable, but exceptions to this rule also apply, such as when you put a playground that children can see and is very inviting to children.



Under the California law if you are bitten in a place where you have a right to be, you automatically win on liability, and it is only a matter of proving damages. If you are bitten after ignoring a sign that says no invitation is made to enter my property expressly or impliedly then a different standard applies. The standard is one of negligence, was the owner's conduct reasonable. Training an attack dog to attack any human being upon entering the property is probably not reasonable, even if the dog is supposed to be a guard dog. There is also the mail man exception, the mail man has to drop off the owner's mail and if bitten would have a lawsuit against the dog owner, regardless of whether there is a sign or not, these exceptions are probably the same throughout the country.



The best way to avoid liability if you own a dog might be to put up a sign that says, one that says there is no implied invitation to this property, keep out, all others in consideration for entering this property you assume the risk of getting bitten by a dog or something similar. It would not eliminate the risk of liability for a dog biting a human being, especially if it is at night and there is no light on the sign, but otherwise if the sign can be read, it would help minimize or eliminate the risk of liability. The more reasonable the owners conduct the smaller the risk. If you order a dog to attack and the dog happens to be particularly aggressive and it kills. The dog may be considered a weapon, not much different than shooting a gun. It all comes to reasonableness on the part of the owner.



Unlike most car accidents a dog bite or dog attack is a special kind of personal injury claim for insurance companies. It is a type of claim that is not evaluated by a computer. The types of damages that are pursued are often for pain, suffering, emotional distress, disfigurement, loss or earnings, reasonable and necessary medical expenses, and future medical treatment. If the dog attack while the victim was doing something illegal, it is unlikely that a lawsuit can be maintained, but if not then these damages can be pursued.



California law states that a person cannot bring a lawsuit when a bite occurs if the dog is a military dog or police dog and the person bitten was annoying, harassing, or provoking the dog and the dog was defending itself. Also, a person cannot bring a lawsuit against a dogs used by the police or military, if the military dog or police dog was assisting an employee of the agency in apprehension or holding of a suspect where the employee has reasonable suspicion of the suspect's involvement in criminal activity. There is no real clear line as to what reasonable suspicion means. No lawsuits are permitted when the military or dog is assisting an employee of the agency in investigation of a crime or possible crime, in the execution of a warrant, and in the defense of a peace officer or another person.



Exceptions apply to military and police dogs as well. If the person bitten by a military or police dog is not a party to, nor a participant in, nor suspected to be a party to or a participant in, the act or acts that prompted the use of the dog in the military or police work, then the person is allowed to bring a lawsuit. When passing by a police dog caution is advised, because it is not unusual for passer-bys or bystanders to get bitten by a poorly trained dogs.



The police and military exception also has special requirements, for the police and military dog exception to apply the agency must also have adopted a written policy on the necessary and appropriate use of a dog for the type of work the dog is to do.



Once the dog bites, the law imposes additional duties, if a dog bites a human being, the owner of the dog is required to take steps to remove the danger of a bite from the same dog on another person.



Once the dog bites twice, any person, the DA, or city attorney can bring an action in court to determine if the confinement and treatment of the dog is sufficient to keep it out of danger to other persons. The court has the power, after hearing, to order that remove the dog from where it is confined, or even to destroy it if necessary.



A different standard applies when the dog has been trained to fight. If the dog has been trained to fight then only one bite is required for any person, the district attorney, or city attorney to bring an action in court to determine if the dog's confinement is sufficient to keep the dog from biting another human being. Once again after hearing the court has the power to prevent the reoccurence of a bite, by removal of the dog from the area or destruction if necessary.



Unlike some states, in California there are no free bites. If the dog bites a human being, there is liability for personal injury, unless there some sort of exception such as a police dog or military dog exception.


Author Resource:->  For a North San Diego County Attorney visit the authors website.

Attorney Arnold Hernandez. Lawyer, overtime,personal injury, car accident, dog bite, and wrongful death, Escondido, San Marcos, Vista, Oceanside, Carlsbad, Encinitas


Article From Article Riot

Biker Gear And Your Dog

By: Victor Epand


Who would have ever guessed that your dog would want to ride on your motorcycle with you, but yes they really do. Most dogs enjoy the open air and freedom as much as their owners do.



When you are looking for motorcycle gear for your dog, you should think about a few things. You want them to be able to enjoy their ride but also stay safe. This can make a big difference on what kind of motorcycle gear you decide to get for your dog.



Most motorcycle gear stores will have some kinds of products for your dog. You may have to ask if you want something that is more custom, but they can usually order it for you. Some of the best gear for your dog is the stuff that you find in pet shops like goggles and sometimes biker oriented hats that go with the style. You may also find jackets for your dog as well. This is a great way to help your dog to look like a real rider as well as be safe while he's on the road with you.



If you haven't taken your dog out on the open road yet, you may want to take it slow with him so that he's not stressed out about the ride. You will probably want to get a side car for him to ride in. That way he will be safe on his ride and be comfortable too. That's pretty important for your best friend. Another good idea is to start him out on these kinds of rides before he gets to big. This will help him to get used to the ride and how it works for him. You also may want to start at a slow pace so that he is not overwhelmed with the air that is coming at him when he starts his first ride. Many people take this part of it for granted and don't care if their dog is upset.



As you can see there are many things that you need to think of when you are getting ready to start your ride with your best friend. You need to make sure that you are ready for your dog to take his first ride that he will ever take. You may be able to find the best motorcycle gear for your dog if you take the time to look for it.


Author Resource:->  Victor Epand is an expert consultant about motorcycle gear, used motorcycle parts, and used car parts. When shopping for motorcycle gear or used parts, we recommend only the best stores for motorcycle gear, used motorcycle parts, and used car parts.


Article From Article Riot

Utah Prairie Dog Threatened by Utah Land Development

By: Art Gib


The Utah Prairie Dog is one species of animal that one may not think would have population problems, seeing that most "rodent" type animals have some of the biggest litters out of most mammalian creatures.



But one subspecies that is endemic to Utah, aptly named the Utah Prairie Dog, has come under strain that last few decades. Some attribute this to disease and naturally occurring population culling, but biologists are finding that farm poisonings and Utah land development has created some issues too.



Recently the population count has come in with very low numbers -- around 5,000 individuals. They exist in colonies underground. Their livelihood is underground, like most prairie dogs. This is their way of protecting themselves from natural predators and is a way of storing food and hibernating during the winter. Since European settlement brought human populations over to the Utah area, poisoning campaigns and development have impinged on their population growth, usually because they are thought to create problems with cows and farming.



They do pose some problems when it comes to human land use and cattle raising. They will feed on the same grasses that cows eat and have been known to overpopulate a given section of desired land that is to be used for development. However since this species has shown declining numbers, wildlife biologists and state politicians have sought protection measures.



Safe Harbor, and Coexistence as an Answer



So there are both extremes to the answer. You have those who believe that Utah land development should not be allowed to reach such areas that should be set aside for the species, and you have those who believe that their population is not important enough in the wake of local economy and land usage.



Most biologists would agree that either side may not be realistic due to the repercussions that occur and that a medium should be found between the two.



So what many land owners and biologists have devised is some kind way to both support the species while development can also proceed. One type of resolution is the safe harbor agreement. The Utah Prairie dog safe harbor agreement was launched in 1998 with a few ranchers around the state.



With it comes an agreement that land owners will agree to have a set level of prairie dogs, while being compensated for their efforts to preserve the populations. This was a revolutionary pact and has come to an agreeable table presently.


Author Resource:->  Cypress Financial (http://www.cypressfinancial.cc) helps Utah Land development grow by assisting developers with loans and locating development opportunities. They provide risk assessment as well to make sure the land investment is a sound one. The author, Art Gib, is a freelance writer.


Article From Article Riot