You have a tinny tiny dog! He runs around all day and at the end of the day he loves to crash on your bed. If this has happened to you then I think it is time you invested in a roomy cushioned dog bed. Your dog resting on his back on your bed is a tell tale sign that he loves a lot of room and loves a soft space to rest on.
Before you go rushing out to the store to buy your pal his very own bed there are some preparations that need to be done before its all said and done. First things first you need to measure your pet to make sure you don’t buy something too big or too small. To measure, first measure from the tip of his nose to the tip of his tail and then from the top of his head to the bottom of his feet. This will give you a runabout measurement to work with. If you plan on getting something that has cushions or padding then it is my suggestion that you add about 12 inches to this measurement to make sure your pet has enough space.
Next you need to do a little detective work and see where your pet sleeps the most and in what position. If your pet likes to sleep snugly then you might want to invest in a donut shaped bed. If he likes to spread out and sleep with a lot of room then a circular or squared shaped bed is right for him. Most small dogs love to sleep in a tight formation in order to keep themselves warm and comfortable. When choosing your bed, make sure you get something appropriate to his age and needs as well. If your dog has joint pains then it would be a good idea to get a bed that isn’t too close to the floor so that he doesn’t have to bend too much to lie down. It is also especially difficult to pick himself up when getting out of bed. This is why if you have a dog with joint pains you should get him a bed that is higher off the ground.
Lastly when you have gone out and bought your bed you need to make sure you put it in the most appropriate spot. The answer here should have been discovered when you did your detective work on where you pet sleeps. By knowing where he sleeps and placing the bed at that specific location you increase your chances of your pet actually sleeping in the bed. This is especially true if you have an older dog that isn’t trained to sleep in the actual bed and has slept everywhere else.
A dog bed is an excellent investment not only for you but especially for the health and happiness of your pet.
By: Sarah Miller
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
This author lives in Flemington, NJ with her husband and 5 month old daughter and is an expert contributing author for a luxury elevated dog feeders boutique offering variety of dog beds and orthopedic dog beds. This author and DogBedSupplies are also dedicated to providing valuable and informative articles on pet health, dog training, crate training, puppy breeds and more.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
The Perfect Dog Beds For Small Dogs
Posted by pipat at 9:50 AM 0 comments
Labels: dog bed, dog history, dog tip
Winning At The Dog Track With Good Advice
When I started with greyhound handicapping, I was in my late twenties and as numb as a pounded thumb about dog racing. Luckily, I had several more experienced mentors to give me advice and keep me from ending up in the poorhouse. That's one of the reasons I write articles about how to win at the dog track now. I remember how it felt to want to win, way back when I was too clueless to pick a winner in a one-dog race.
Here in no particular order is some of the best advice I ever got:
* Never bet a puppy in his first A race (or AA at some tracks, whatever the top grade is), no matter how good he looks or how fast he came up through the grades. They almost never win. (From an old-timer at Lincoln Greyhound Park, now called Twin Rivers.) He was right. You know, in 30 years of watching dog races, I've almost never seen a puppy win its first race in the top grade.
* Never bet more than four dogs in a quiniela or trifecta box. It's almost always too costly to pay off. And if you can't narrow a race down to four or fewer real contenders, you should just lay off and wait for a better race.
* Never bet on the basis of schooling races. Period. (And that includes Maiden races where one dog has fantastic times and has won every schooling race it was in.)
* Never bet more when you're losing. It rarely works and you'll just end up losing even more.
* Never blame the dogs when you lose. They have no idea you bet on them and know less about greyhound racing than you do. They're not trying to lose on purpose or do you dirt. They're just dogs doing what dogs do - chasing something with a bunch of other dogs. Truth to tell, the dogs are the only dog track fans who almost always go home happy about the races.
By: Eb Netr
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
If you don't go home from the dog track with a smile on your face, you need to go to Winning At The Dog Track with Eb. You'll find free articles, tips and winning systems at ebnetr.com .
Posted by pipat at 9:50 AM 0 comments
Labels: dog history
Winning At The Dog Track Without Getting Disqualified
My friend, Willie and I were talking the other day about how often we've bet on a dog and had it get bumped by another dog, which is pretty discouraging. I said maybe it'd be a good idea if they disqualified dogs and changed the results of the race like they do for horse races. Willie is clearheaded, however, and he set me straight on that idea right away.
"Yeah, but then what about our dogs that come in because they bump another dog or another dog bumps a dog and they benefit? We'd lose those bets too."
As usual, Willie made a good point. Most greyhound races have one or two dogs who get into trouble or cause trouble. But, unlike at the horse track, it's not because their jockeys didn't control them properly. It's just because they're dogs and dogs bump each other. It's the nature of the beast as you'll know if you've ever thrown a tennis ball for more than one dog at a time.
People get so angry when dogs knock each other down and bump and "turn their heads" to nip each other (doesn't work with a muzzle, but they try anyhow), but that's what dogs do. It's just as much a part of a greyhound's makeup as running as fast as it can after anything that moves is.
Many years ago, at Lincoln Greyhound Park (now Twin Rivers) in RI, someone got the bright idea of using monkeys for jockeys on the dogs. Not only was it cruel and inhumane to both species, but it didn't work. You can't control monkeys any more than monkeys can control greyhounds. The idea was scrapped and the dogs were allowed to run as nature intended - free of all outside control.
When you think about it, in horse racing, it's not the horse that's penalized. It's the jockey. So disqualifying greyhounds wouldn't make sense, since they're not under anyone's control. And in some races, if you disqualified every dog who bumped another dog or went wide and took out the outside dogs, you wouldn't have any dogs left for Win, Place or Show.
Nope, Willie is right. Some bumping and blocking and shuffling is normal in dog racing, so we should just accept it and do the best we can to handicap around it by improving our handicapping skills.
By: Eb Netr
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
You can improve your handicapping skills with free articles, tips and winning systems at ebnetr.com .
Posted by pipat at 9:50 AM 4 comments
Labels: dog history
Winning At The Dog Track With The Big Picture
I used to know a guy who would come up to me before a race, run his finger down his program and say, "You know who's gonna win this race? I'll tell you who's gonna win this race." Then he'd pause and look serious and say, "The 3 is gonna win. He's a standout. A cinch. He's so much better than the other dogs, they shouldn't even be in the same race with him." And then he'd go away and do the same thing with someone else.
I probably don't have to tell you that his dogs almost never came in. That didn't stop him from using his handicapping method, which I call "handicapping in a vacuum", because he'd focus in on one dog and ignore the other 7, like it was the only dog in the race.
Sure, there are races where one dog stands out from the rest to the point where, at first glance, it looks - like the wiseguys say - as if he's the only dog in the race. But take a second look and in most races, it's not as simple as it seems to pick one standout dog. For one thing, no matter how good a dog looks in his 6 previous races, this is a whole 'nother race.
Maybe he has great times. Maybe he always breaks first and is almost always "first to turn" (if you're lucky enough to be able to tell that from your track's program), but that doesn't mean he'll break first or get to the turn first in this race. The track might be slower or wet or just raked. He might not like the box he's in. He might get blocked or shuffled back or cut off by another dog.
In every race, it's my firm opinion that you have to handicap every dog against every other dog, not just for how good it was in its last 6 races. You have to figure out how this race is going to be run for pace, for running style of each dog and for conflicts of running style between the dogs. This is why I handicap "backwards", so to speak, and try to eliminate at least half the dogs before I look for the strongest contender.
And, even then, I hardly ever play one dog to win. I almost always box four of them in a quiniela. If I'm ahead, I may get a little crazy and play them in a ten cent superfecta. About the only time I play a win bet is on one of the dogs that I follow closely and the older I get, the fewer of them I follow. It's just too much to keep track of.
So look at the big picture in every race and don't just focus on one dog, no matter how good it looks at first glance. Look again and make sure you don't overlook the other dogs. No matter how much better one dog looks than the others, when the boxes open, every one of those eight dogs will come out determined to "catch the bunny" and none of them is out of the question until the race is official.
By: Eb Netr
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
If you sometimes miss part of the big picture when you're betting on the dogs, you need to go to Winning At The Dog Track With Eb. You'll find free articles, tips and winning systems at ebnetr.com
Posted by pipat at 9:50 AM 0 comments
Labels: dog history
Dog Obedience Training Equipment
To properly train your dog, you're going to need the right dog training tools. These sorts of tools are designed with improving the learning process for your dog. Dog training tools are something which every dog owner must be well aware of. There are a lot of different dog training tools out there and knowing a bit about some of them and how they are used will be beneficial to the dog training process. Below you can read about a few of these dog training tools.
- Dog Clicker: The dog clicker is a very simple, yet effective dog training tool. These are used during instruction and dog training and consist of a plastic box with a metal tongue inside. This box creates a series of clicks when the tongue is pressed, which will get your dogs' attention. The dog clicker is used to inform the dog that it is performing well, or to call your dog in off leash training exercises.
- Dog Choke Collar: These collars consist of a long chain with a ring on either end. The chain is passed through one ring and slipped over the head of the dog. The chain is used to correct unacceptable behavior. When the dog misbehaves, the chain is tugged, which tightens the chain. This serves as a warning signal to your dog.
- Dog Prong Collar: A prong collar is similar in function to a choke collar, but is constructed not of a simple chain but interlocking metal links which have long teeth that curve upwards. When a prong collar is tugged, there is a tightening of the collar along with a poke being given to your dog. These collars can work when a choke collar just doesn't work to correct a particular behavior.
- Dog Electronic collars: The electronic collar is one that releases small currents of electrical impulses to the dog's neck when it isn't acting the way the owner wants it to act. The electrical impulses are controlled by the owner and can be intense or mild. Even the current in its most intense form is not harmful to the dog contrary to what people set against this tool claim. Electronic collars have been used successfully to train many dogs.
- Dog Treats: These are familiar to any dog owner. The particular treat used depends on the dog and trainer, but the idea is to encourage the dog to continue behaving in a desirable manner. This can be anything enjoyed by your dog.
These are just a couple of ideas for dog obedience training equipment which you may want to consider for the training of your dog. There are many others out there, don't be afraid to explore your options.
By: Joe Lava
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
For more information related to the various techniques used to train your dog, please stop by my Dog Training site. While you are there, also stop by my page on Dog Obedience Training Equipment
Posted by pipat at 9:50 AM 0 comments
Labels: dog history, dog tip, Dog Training