Puppy Training: How To Understand Your Dog's Mood

By Richard Cussons
Make you puppy training easier and more fun by understanding that your puppy is trying to communicate with you in other ways than barking or wagging his tail. Remember, your puppy also communicates with his ears, tail, paws, mouth and more and your puppy training and everyday life with your dog will be much more fun.

Here is a short guide to some basic dog body language and what it means:

Dominant - You'll find that a dominant dog has its ears straight up or forward, its mouth slightly opened or closed, its eyes open wide or staring, its body standing stiff and tall with hackles possibly raised, and its tail out from the body stiffened or fluffed. A low and assertive bark can often be expected.

Friendly - A friendly dog has perked up ears, open and alert eyes, a relaxed mouth, a tail or whole rear end wagging, and possibly whimpering, yapping or giving short barks.

Playful - A bow position with wagging tail means "let's play". Submissive - A dog with its ears tightly back, eyes closed and paw raised is showing extreme submission. The dog isn't happy but shows it will not attack.

Aggressive - An aggressive dog has its ears flattened back against its head, its eyes narrowed or challenging, body tense, mouth open to show teeth and tail held out from the body and fluffed up if possible. Snarls or growls are typical.

Worried - Sharp barks combined with growling, ears flattened and neck hairs raised means "I'm worried" or "something is wrong."

Fear - A dog shows fear with a lowered stance, tail down or tucked underneath, an arched back, looking or turning head whilst showing the whites of their whites of eyes and dilated pupils. Dogs often bark out of fear, especially if they are cornered, fenced in, or on a leash.

Stressed - A stressed dog will often have ears back and down, a wide open mouth, lips drawn back with rapid respiration. Also shoulders lowered, hunched forward, tail tucked, tension in haunches and will probably be trembling.

Now that you understand more about what your puppy is trying to say to you about how he feels or the mood he is in try to accommodate this in your puppy training and everyday life.

In a puppy training session your dog should be showing that he is in a friendly or playful mood. If he shows he is dominant then you know that he may not be taking you seriously or could be being stubborn and you probably need to be more assertive.

Some submissive behaviour is not a bad thing as it means that that he understands that you are in charge.

If your puppy becomes stressed, fearful, worried or even aggressive, you must stop your training and reassure your dog immediately. If you have been training for more than 15 minutes stop and take a break. When you come back takes things more slowly or approach things in a different way.

Use your knowledge in every day life too. Observe your puppy in different situations and you will quickly discover what he likes and dislikes or how he is feeling. You can then take steps to give him more of what he enjoys and more support, confidence and training in situations he finds more difficult.

Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. Discover more about puppy training and care at http://www.all-about-puppies.com/puppy_training.html.

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

Ever Wonder How Fast To Train Or Work With Your Dog?

By Adam Katz
I noticed the other day, while working with a new German Shepherd dog-mix I adopted from a local animal shelter—how fast and intense you must work with your dog, during the “reinforcement” phase.

Your dog goes through three general phases of learning:

1. “The Learning phase”: This is when the dog learns to understand what a command means. You use very little correction at this phase, and may use toys, balls or food to motivate (not bribe!) the dog into doing and understanding what the command means. The problem with most amateur dog trainers is that they feel their dog is trained, once he understands a command and has gone through the “Learning Phase.”

2. “The Reinforcement phase”: Once the dog has learned what the command means, he needs to be “re- taught” the command in a variety of different settings. Because he’ll likely only associate response to the command in the initial setting you’ve trained him in, he needs to “relearn” the command in different types of areas. This happens very quickly. It usually only takes one or two repetitions, and then it “clicks” for the dog. Once you see that it’s “clicked for the dog,” this is when you need to start working very fast, exciting and BRIEF sessions. Your goal is to get the dog to respond to commands very quickly. IF you’re working on the “down” command, then the dog should drop into the down position very quickly—AND THEN IMMEDIATELY GIVE HIM YOUR “RELEASE COMMAND!” Run 5 or 10 steps with the dog, then reissue the command. When you give him the release command, toss a ball, or a piece of food. You should be aiming to teach the dog that training is a big, fun game. A game that he has to respect. But nonetheless, a game the he loves and looks forward to playing with you—in any environment.

Here’s where most new trainers fail: They don’t work the dog fast enough. You need to make your body language fast and exciting to the dog. IF you’re not sweating and huffing and puffing after 5-10 minutes… then you’re not being animated enough. For fastest results, work the dog like this for 3-4 sessions a day and you’ll see dramatic improvement.

3. “The Proofing Phase”: This phase teaches the dog that 100% reliability in every type of environment is absolutely imperative. Make sure your proof your dog in every type of environment that you can imagine. Practice in parks, in field and in parking lots. Practice around other dogs, and cats. And even chickens and goats. One you've "proofed" your dog, you can relax in knowing that you can pretty much take your dog anywhere and know that hell listen.

Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History." Get a free copy of his report "Games To Play With Your Dog" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

Vaccinating Your Dog – How Much And How Often?

By: Simon Harris
Pet lovers know that it is very important to vaccinate their dogs, but how early and how often are two questions that are currently much on their minds as well as on the minds of the veterinary community at large. While vets agree that it is still vital to vaccinate puppies at 6 weeks for distemper and measles if they did not nurse during the first few hours after they were born and again at 8, 12, and 16 weeks for Distemper, Canine Infectious Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus, and Coronavirus (DHLPPC), there have been questions as to whether the traditionally recommended (and in some states required) annual vaccinations are necessary. Puppies are also vaccinated for rabies at six months and this, too, is repeated annually.

The concerns that some dog owners have is whether the repeated dog vaccinations are really necessary and whether they are, in fact, doing more harm than good. Vaccinations work by stimulating the dog’s immune system, encouraging it to readily produce antibodies to fight against specific types of bacteria and viruses. Stimulating the immune system this way comes at a price – the actual introduction of the offending agent in some form to the dog’s system, leading to the concerns of dog lovers and vets alike.

The questions on the minds of those concerned are “is it dangerous to repeatedly vaccinate my dog each year” and “how much vaccine should a dog receive and how often?” Fortunately the experts do agree that the answer to the first question is a resounding “no.” While there are rare cases of dogs that have become very ill or even died as a result of vaccination, there is no evidence to suggest that this practice poses any real danger to the dog. The animals adversely affected may have already been sick unbeknownst to their owners of had some form of allergy to a specific part of the vaccine. The answer to the second question is less encouraging because, the truth is; no one knows for sure how much vaccine is really necessary and how often it really should be given. This is currently a topic of much discussion and debate in veterinary circles.

The best advice that dog owners can take is to continue vaccinating their dogs according to local laws and the recommendations of their vets. Since the annual vaccines are not harming the dogs in any evident way, there is no cause for alarm and no harm in continuing the same routine until the veterinary community makes up its collective mind that a change is in order with regard to dog vaccinations.

This article provided courtesty of http://www.puppy-training-guide.com

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

Dealing With Ringworms In Dogs And Cats

By Rose Smith
Ringworm is an annoying, highly contagious fungal disorder that is curable. The problem with this disorder is that there are 35 different species of ringworm that can affect cats, dogs and be transmitted to humans as well. The most common form is Mircosporum Canis which accounts for the majority of ringworm cases.

Ringworm is caused from exposure to the dermatophytes from spores present in the environment, mainly from other animals that are infected with it. Your pet could pick it up from anywhere...boarding kennels, breeding kennels, someone else's home. The spores can live in the environment for up to 13 months and are very hard to get rid of, so reinfection of animals is also a common problem. As well, children are highly susceptible to these infections, so it is very important to rid the household of this fungus as soon as possible.

This disorder usually appears as a lesion upon the skin of an animal or human and requires medical attention. It looks like a rapidly growing circular patch of broken hair in most cases. The patch may look somewhat inflamed and appear to have "dandruff" like flakes on it. However, sometimes it is very hard to spot ringworm, especially in longhaired cats or dogs. The fungus can also affect a cat's claws where they become roughened and pitted.

A veterinarian can usually diagnose ringworm by using an ultraviolet light. In some cases however, this isn't enough and a sample of hair or scrapping of the skin is needed for further diagnosis. Treatment is basically in the form of antifungal pills and/or topical medications such as creams or medicated shampoos.

The major problem is getting rid of the spores in your home so they don't reinfect your pets. Most spores are shed through the fur into the carpet, so occasional "dip" baths may be required to kill the spores that may linger on the fur of cats and dogs. As well, it is recommended that you destroy all pet bedding, blankets, brushes/combs, scratching posts and other items used by the pets. Any items that cannot be thrown out need to be soaked thoroughly in a solution of hot water and Betadine or Iodophor for one hour. They should then be rinsed in a mixture of water and .5% chlorine bleach. Drying the items outdoors in sunlight will also help. Vacuum your house thoroughly and be sure to immediately dispose of the vacuum bag. Then have all carpets and upholstery steam-cleaned and wash all walls with a mixture of water and chlorine bleach. If you have an air filter in your home, you must also dispose of the filter.

Although ringworm is a mild disorder, it can cause a tremendous amount of problems to a household. If you continue to have problems with reinfection, please consult your veterinarian for additional solutions or information that he/she may be able to provide.

Visit www.goofusroofus.com for informative articles, fun activities and great products for your dog and/or cat. Sign up for our newsletter The GoofusRoofus Gazette http://www.goofusroofus.com/newsletter.htm

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

Defend Your Dog And Stop That Hurting Paw!

By: Blake Kritzberg
Of course, we humans use shoes to protect our feet. We insist on it! But dogs usually don't have that luxury, and routinely walk over ice, rock, grass, cement and soil on their bare paws. Their paws' thick pads give them protection we don't have, and that's why they're less susceptible to cuts and grazes. But this doesn't mean a dog's paws are indestructible. In fact, the areas between the pads are very sensitive and can suffer from cuts, burns, and other ailments.

One of the clues to a paw problem is when your dog comes back limping or favoring only one of its legs. The only way for you to narrow down the issue is to check his paw for any visible and physical signs of bleeding, swelling, redness or blisters.

Some dogs are very protective of their paws and don't like people touching them -- and they'll let you know! Keep persisting. One of my dogs, who just hates having her paws touched, will usually relax when I gently reassure her that I'm only trying to help. Although dogs don't understand many of our words, they do just fine at detecting our emotions, and sometimes intentions, from our actions and tone of voice.

If your dog has a cut, wash the wound with an antiseptic solution and apply a layer of antiseptic cream. Check the wound again the next day to see if it's getting better. If it looks infected, you should bring your dog to the vet. I was once shocked to discover maggots wiggling inside a paw wound on my dog -- ugh. Needless to say, we went to the vet immediately (she was fine after treatment).

In certain breeds, hair mats may grow between the pads, which can cause irritation. In these breeds, it's essential to trim regularly between the mats to keep the paws in good shape. Even in other breeds, dogs that run outdoors can get mud trapped between the pads. Again, this will irritate the paw, so it's best that you clean up with soap and water when you see mud between the toes.

Just as we humans get dry and cracked heels, dogs also experience dry and calloused paw pads. The solution for them is similar to ours -- apply moisturizers. In fact, you can even use your hand moisturizer on your dog! But there's a challenge involved: stopping your dog from licking it away after you apply it. A good trick is to apply the moisturizer right before your dog has his meal. This way, you can allow a little time for the moisturizer to settle in. Otherwise, you can play with your pooch to keep him occupied and restrain him if he starts licking his paws.

Finally, you probably have seen dogs in dog boots and wondered if these boots would effectively protect your dog's feet. But your dog may be better off without them, as they can easily walk out of these boots -- active, athletic dogs in particular. In the end, your dog will enjoy himself more walking on his own paws, with some occasional care and maintenance from you.

Blake Kritzberg is proprietor of Poodle-oo: Fashion for Toy Dogs. Stop by for toy dog couture and home decor, free toy dog postcards and the Toy Dog Blog. http://www.poodle-oo.com/

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com